{"id":11364,"date":"2025-12-23T10:29:48","date_gmt":"2025-12-23T09:29:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.modatecadeanna.it\/martin-margiela-the-womens-collections-1989-2009\/"},"modified":"2025-12-23T11:02:02","modified_gmt":"2025-12-23T10:02:02","slug":"martin-margiela-the-womens-collections-1989-2009","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.modatecadeanna.it\/en\/martin-margiela-the-womens-collections-1989-2009\/","title":{"rendered":"Martin Margiela: The Women\u2019s Collections – 1989\/2009"},"content":{"rendered":"

BY ART MATTERS AND B1OCK – 30TH SEPT 2025\/31ST JAN 2026<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cMARTIN MARGIELA 1989 \u2013 2009 THE WOMEN\u2019S COLLECTIONS\u201d, an exhibition organized in collaboration with the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of Paris, Paris Mus\u00e9es, at O\u014dEli Space (Building No.6) of the O\u014dEli campus in Hangzhou, China, with some iconic pieces from Modateca Deanna’s archives.<\/p>\n

The first comprehensive exhibition devoted to Martin Margiela ever presented in Asia, this landmark show presents more than 130 silhouettes, videos of runway shows, fashion archives, and specially conceived installations and traces his career from Spring\u2013Summer 1989 to Spring\u2013Summer 2009, showcasing the work of a designer who not only questioned the structure of garments but also challenged the structure of the fashion system. \u201cMARTIN MARGIELA 1989 \u2013 2009 THE WOMEN\u2019S COLLECTIONS\u201d offers an unprecedented survey of one of the most influential and enigmatic contemporary fashion designers.<\/p>\n

Martin Margiela (b. Louvain, Belgium in 1957) graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, in 1980. After a stint as Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s assistant between 1984 and 1987, he became associated with the Antwerp school and the only Belgian designer of his generation to have founded his own fashion house in Paris. For the Spring-Summer 1990 collection, Margiela presented his third runway show in a derelict Parisian wasteland. Models walked amid seated neighborhood children, wearing deconstructed garments, raw hems, and repurposed items transformed into clothes or accessories. The unconventional setting, the visible traces of construction, and the dismantling of fashion\u2019s polished codes caused a sensation, marking a decisive break from the opulence of the late 1980s and signaling the arrival of a new avant-garde.<\/p>\n

Still a major creative reference worldwide, Margiela\u2019s conceptual approach challenged the fashion aesthetics of his time. He constructed garments by deconstructing them\u2014exposing linings, unfinished seams, and the stages of manufacture: pleats, shoulder pads, patterns, muslins, and bastings or shoulder pads.<\/p>\n

He pushed proportions to extremes, enlarging garments with his \u201cOversize Collections\u201d or adapting dolls\u2019 clothes for life-size wear. He printed trompe-l\u2019\u0153il photos of dresses, sweaters, and coats, and introduced the \u201ccloven\u201d shoe inspired by traditional Japanese tabi.<\/p>\n

Margiela also questioned the obsolescence of clothing. His \u201cArtisanal\u201d collection repurposed garments and recovered materials into unique, hand-sewn pieces. The \u201cReplica\u201d series faithfully reproduced vintage clothing sourced from around the world.<\/p>\n

A designer without a public face, Margiela eschewed interviews, used a plain white label without a brand name, and embraced white in countless shades. His shows unfolded in unexpected spaces\u2014car park, warehouse, metro station etc.<\/p>\n

Pioneering in vision and uncompromising in execution, Martin Margiela shaped a new language of fashion that continues to resonate with designers today. His radical ideas opened new paths for experimentation, influencing generations who followed. Margiela\u2019s legacy endures not only in the ideas he championed, but in the extraordinary precision with which he brought them to life.<\/p>\n

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